American Seafood

Increasingly seafood has become a favorite part of my diet. For several years I’ve been addicted to oysters. Clams and mussels are regulars. Lobster and crab when available. A variety of fish. Smoked salmon and pickled herring are usually available. I counted 35 different varieties of seafood that I’ve eaten. That’s not counting different types of salmon or scallops. The list I consulted was from “American Seafood: heritage, culture & cookery from sea to shining sea.” (2017) by Barton Seaver. He has 100 different headings, sometimes several related species under the same heading for a total of 500. What a diversity. Compare it to meats? Of course many species are not readily available and subspecies not always identified.                 Growing up in Bristol, PA I did some fishing in the Delaware River. We caught catfish, carp, sunnies and eels. Never remember eating any. On Long Beach Island, summers we fished for flounder and bluefish. My father bought a surf rod but I don’t recall any catch. A bit of success in the bay. Then my cousin Bill bought a boat and for several years we went into the ocean chasing blues.               Wolverine CAMERA   Flounder was probably the most common fish we had at home. Tuna in a can. Maybe sardines or anchovies. Smelts on Christmas Eve.  On LBI Uncle Frank made clams casino his speciality. Clams or Blue crabs might be bought for pasta sauce. Diane and I went crabbing once or twice.                 In Boston I discovered oysters at the Union Oyster House, was introduced to clam chowder (New England and Manhattan) and probably scallops. We expanded our fish beyond flounder including cod, salmon, swordfish, tuna, and trout. On a trip to Maine we stopped roadside and I had my first lobster, corn and baked potato. A new culinary experience. We bought clams and mussels — steamed and pasta sauce.   in the 1980-90s there was a widening variety of offerings.  Grouper, tilapia, halibut, haddock, sea bass, striped bass, red fish, octopus, squid, shark, mackerel.  Tried sea urchin, conch, crayfish, at least once.  In the 1980s led by Jenny, for about two decades, we were vegetarian.  Seafood was more common on our menus.                                                  For several years in the late 80s and 90s, with Susan and Jerry Taylor, we chartered a 30-32 foot sailboat out of Rock Hall, MD. The “Waterman” became our standard for Blue Crabs, outside picnic tables, a roll of paper, small hammers, crackers, and pickers. A tub of butter and pitcher of beer. Bring on the crabs. Around this time, I discovered, “ Beautiful Swimmers: watermen, crabs and the Chesapeake Bay” (1994). A delightful history about blue crab culture. I was drawn to the description of soft-shell crabs. Where could I get some. I recall asking one of the Giordano boys from the Italian market but learned they were out of season. The following Spring visiting Jerry Alonzo in Cape May I had my first soft shell crab sandwich from a truck. Hooked. Last week I was checking local restaurants to see if anyone was serving them yet this season. Seaver mentions “Beautiful Swimmers” and several other seafood books I’ve read.                             Since our college days, New England has always been a favorite vacation. Every several years we’re in Maine and enjoying lobster. Lobster rolls (I favor butter) from one of the CT or souther Maine shacks announce we have arrived. In recent years we’ve stayed with friends David and Judt Sears. Summer on Mantincus Island, Fall at their Cushing house. On the island they are among the handful of non- lobstering families. So they have a lobsterman friend drop them off at the end of the day. One is delicious; two transports me.                                         When I go out to dinner, 75% of the time, I order seafood. Annually in Nantucket we’d go to Straight Wharf where I’d have the grilled swordfish. I mentioned my oyster addiction. On Cape Cod for two weeks I’ll have fresh oysters several times. On the Cape we have several favorite Oyster bars. On the drive up we’ve been stopping at Matunuck Oysters in Rhode Island. They have their own beds; the menu is amazing. We usually get there after having lunch so have been limited to small portions. Raw oysters, grilled oysters and I discovered scallop ceviche. In Dennis we go to the Oyster Company that serves its own Crows Point oysters. Eli has been converted; Viv tries them. The oyster sashimi will transport you.                              We go to Mac’s Shack in Wellfleet.  Yes, Wellfleet oysters and clams on the menu.  I’ve been trying to discriminate between oysters terroir, size, briny flavor, how chewy.  I’ll confess my palate is limited but sometimes identify something memorable.  Wellfleet are excellent.  Mac’s also has a sushi bar.  We don’t have a lot of experience with sushi but have several places in Yardley-Newtown and hope to get it more frequently.                      Seafood shopping is always fun. Buckingham seafood on 413 was a favorite until it burned down several years ago, rebuilt but hasn’t reopened. Nassau Street Seafood in Princeton is very good. They operate Blue Point Grill next door and recently opened in Newtown. It’s where I first remember ordering octopus. If cooked correctly it’s tender and tasty. I buy it now pre cooked and frozen. Just heat it up in olive oil.                     Nassau Street put me on to Heller’s Seafood in Warminister. It’s were we now buy most of our seafood.  I learned that the owner of Nassau Street and owner of Hellers use to travel to Fulton Fish Market together to buy product.  Heller’s always has a nice selection and a large frozen section, octopus, calamari, small lobster tails, crab legs.  We try to buy several meals on a visit.  Freezing one or two.  Since reading Seaver I’m interested in looking at Heller’s offerings to see if there is something new or under utiilized by us.  Online their list of fish include 15 we don’t normally buy.  Of course all aren’t available all the time.  I like when they have jars of shucked oysters for stew or fried oysters.  They also have their own pickled herring, crab cakes, seafood salad and other prepared foods.                  On the Cape we go to several fish markets. In Orleans where we stay, Nauset is the most convenient. They also own Young’s at Rock Harbor where we go for lobster rolls. Mac’s has several markets. And Hatch’s in Wellfleet is picturesque with a nice fresh looking selection. The Chatham fish market unloads local catch, and is always a nice experience.