Cape Cod Rhythms

We’ve been coming to Orleans for over ten years, two week retreats. I enjoy the easy Nantucket Time rhythms, the familiar. I’m not looking for anything dramatic. Just looking to enjoy everyday pleasures. I usually get up at six. Coffee, email, journaling, breakfast may be eggs or bagel with cream cheese and salmon. I probably read or write. This year I’ve already read a book about journaling and three books about being on the Cape. One woman owned a house; another lived in Eastham as a teen and later visited a family house in the summer; the third was a family who regularly vacationed for a week. The three stories all captured some familiar Cape scenes and patterns.                             Some days are beach days. Many town beaches require a parking permit (now usually $30 a day). This year we spent one afternoon at Nauset, an ocean beach and one after four (free parking) at Skaket. Both in Orleans. At least one day we go to the National Seashore, established by President Kennedy in the 1960s (free parking with a seniors pass). This year we were given a tour of Chatham lighthouse by Eli’s friend Salvi and his mother. The family moved here from Gladwyne several years ago. Another day we drove to Head of Meadows beach closer to Provincetown. There is usually high dune along the National Seashore — either an up and down dune walk or steep steps. Lifeguard, Marconi and Race Point are other National Seashore beaches we’ve been to.                 There are several bay beaches we go to regularly, I like First Encounter at low tide or for sunset viewing. Further out is Mayo in Wellfleet in front of The Bookstore Restaurant. This year sat at Mayo (free parking) and spent several hours sitting on the pier, neat photographing a boat unloading quahogs. In Truro we sometimes go to Corn Hill beach; this year we checked out Cold Storage and Lookout Bluff, both in Truro.                 Diane and I went to a beach on Pleasant Bay. It’s quiet, free parking, some boat activity, clamming. A favorite. In a similar way we’ve always enjoyed Tonset landing (several landings in Orleans). This year a cop stopped us and pointed to a permit parking sign. I never saw the sign. We usually go there several times a trip. He said it was there five years. We might be able to legally road park not too far away at a trail head. This year we found no permit needed Scatteree Landing in Chatham; also a small beach on nearby Oyster Pond.                 Years ago kayacking and bicycling were important. I longer do either. Jenny, Rob and the kids still ride bikes on the Cape Cod Rail Trail and kayak on Arey’s. I do some walks but much less than in the past. From the house there is a small path around part of the Pond. Nearby Kent’s Point is a favorite walk through some woods then along the Namequoit River. Could get there in a boat from Arey’s’s. There are shore walks from Tonset Landing and the other landings toward Nauset Beach. The most consistent walk is the Fort Hill loop. This year while everybody did the loop, I sat at Fort Hill. Another nice walk is Uncle Tim’s Bridge in Wellfleet. I haven’t done in it in several years. There is a trail at the Mass Audubon Center to Wellfleet Bay and another at Cape Cod Museum of Natural History.                 Food, I’m talking seafood is important to our Cape trips.  This year I’ve had lobster, roll and whole, halibut, scallops, swordfish, sushi, blue fish pate, mussels, various types of clams, including clam pie and chowder, oysters, more oysters. Fried oysters; raw oysters, sashimi oysters. We purchase most seafood at Nauset Fish Market, Orleans Seafood, or Young’s Fish market, but we love Hatch’s in Wellfleet, Mac’s on Route 6 and Chatham Pier.                         We eat out several times.  The Pheasant in Dennis has been an upscale favorite.  I like Marshside in Dennis; several birthday celebrations there.  In Wellfleet we go to The Pearl and Bookstore Restaurant on the pier.  Wicked Oyster was high on our list for years; Mac’s Shack is always a treat; they have a sushi bar.  In Truro there is Blackfish, elegant and expensive.  In Orleans this year we ate in Abroad (international flavor) and had a drink in the Yardarm and typically take out from The Knack.  Further afield we like the Osterville Fish Too (casual lobster) and Oyster Company in Dennis, our favorite the past three years, featuring their own 1.50 happy hour Quivet oysters.              We usually go to at least one theatre production. For years the it was children’s theatre at the Academy in Orleans — Peter Pan, Beauty and the Beast. This year it was an adult Heathers. At the Cape Playhouse in Dennis we’ve seen Murder on the Orient Express, Sherlock Holmes and this year, Waitress. Very senior crowd.                         We’ve done many National Seashore lectures; museums like the Natural History in Brewster, the Atwood House in Chatham, the Whydah Pirates Museum in Yarmouth, and Edward Gory House. Last year we stopped in the Sandwich Glass Museum. Most years we take a boat trip. It’s typically been a small motor boat to a sandbar or island to collect sea life. Fun kid activity. This year we took a whale watch from Provincetown.                                                                 What’s really important is the rhythms. Getting up early. Checking the weather. Is it cloudy, sunny, any rain. Is the Pond moving or glass like. I write and read and email during coffee The kids may sleep in until nine. Rob sometimes goes for bagels or muffins. Maybe be have eggs. Sometimes out before lunch; other days we have lunch and then head into the afternoon. Time flows slow. No hurry. Several days we view and photograph a sunset before coming home. I spend time on the porch, whatever the weather, reading, writing, just enjoying the pond, sailboats, trees, birds.  Sight and sound.  This is Cape Cod.