Stonington Way

For years I talked and wrote about Nantucket Time. A state of mind, unhurried, not burdened by “I must.” Time is personal, it’s paced, measured, slow. I discovered Nantucket Time on our island vacations. Usually I would achieve it within 24 hours of getting off the ferry. We visited for ten years. For two weeks we spent hours enjoying the quiet of Rattlesnake Bank (as our cottage was called). Reading, writing, photographing. We’d walk down the driveway across Polpis Road to the Bay and bird watch, beach comb, or walk behind the cottage up the hill to the moors and Altar Rock. Usually we were alone. There were bike rides to Sconset, walks around town, kayaking, restaurants, concerts, lectures and historic explores. Each year we enjoyed the familiar and then the new the serendipitous. We were in no hurry. After our two or so weeks on the island, I’d attempt to maintain Nantucket Time in Yardley.                 Our arrival in Stonington two days ago reminded me of Nantucket Time. It’s a resort town but shows no hurry. Except for the handful of tourists staying with us in the Inn at Stonington, most people we meet seemed to be locals. Yesterday after breakfast, we walked downtown to the several commercial blocks and docks.  Our first stop was an antique shop. A conversation with the owner led to a discussion about Nantucket where he was going for an annual antique show. As Diane explored other shops, I paused on benches which seemed to be in front of every other shop. I just watched the flow of morning in a small town. Many people greeted each other, stopped to chat, some walked dogs, trucks stopped with deliveries, the mail man, children with backpacks. Several local color characters were worthy of a photograph. But many years ago I developed a style that photographs only came after some personal, conversational engagement. And I’m sorry that didn’t happen.   From Yardley to Rhinebeck to Stonington I found myself calming. Since retirement we have lead pretty quiet, measured lives. But there are always doctor appointments, house cleaning and house repairs, bills to pay, food shopping, and all our routines. I’m not complaining, I believe we have a good life, contact with friends and relatives, hobbies, field trips, time to read and write, and naps. But slow travel is different. On the road, traveling, hopefully there is nothing urgent or immediate. Go with the flow.                             I’ve been reflecting on how what i’m beginning to call the Stonington Way. It includes greater attention to our senses. In depth attention. Looking at things close (I’m reminded of Sherlock Holmes). For me taking photographs is part of this. Although I remember Colin Fletcher when hiking the Grand Canyon caching his camera because it mediated, changed what he was looking at. But what’s important is the close look.  Listening to sounds, be it children playing, birds, halyards on sailboats, rustling trees, ocean waves, a dog barking, someone sneezing. Sometimes it’s the quiet, the silence, the lack of sound. I’ve been more aware of tastes and smells. At breakfast this morning, there was the aroma and taste of coffee, a buttery croissant, small pastries with chocolate or an apricot like filling, sweet mellon, and a yogurt that was a bit sour. I continue to sample raw and baked oysters distinguishing tastes, sweet, salty. Mussels and clams in broth, white wine or tomato, can be amazing. One night we had a crusty buttered, salted bread with some herbs. It was amazing. I love the salty smell of the bay or ocean, bread in a restaurant or bakery. I need to be more attuned to touch. The heat of the coffee cup; the chill of a Manhattan glass; the wind against my face. With my Stonington Way I can be more deliberate, aware of all sensations, sight, taste, smell, hearing and touch. It combines well with Nantucket Time.   An aside: for my birthday Diane gave me some aromatherapy lotion (to reduce stress). Actually several different bottles. I put one lotion on my face the day before we left Yardley and was so pleased with the aroma that I packed the bottle for the Cape Trip.  I precursor of the Stonington Way.                             We’re headed for our annual two weeks on Areys Pond, Orleans, Cape Cod. We spent one night in Rhinebeck, NY and the two nights in Stonington slow down, limit driving. Three hours a day is manageable, unhurried. There is time to stop for lunch, explore a back road or historic site. Deliberately I choose two nights in the same Inn or B.and B. Today after breakfast we will sit for an hour or more, enjoy our bay view, read or write. We’ll pack up and today go the Stonington Lighthouse and DuBois beach. About 12:30 we’ll drive an hour to have oysters at Matunock Oyster Bar (they have their own beds) in South Kingstown, R.I. A fantastic place we discovered several years ago. From there it will be 2 hours to our Cape retreat on Arey’s Pond.  Our ninth year there.    Nantucket Time; the Stonington Way.  Join me.